Author Topic: My cheap home-made CDL linkage  (Read 3551 times)

Offline GrumpyBastard

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My cheap home-made CDL linkage
« on: July 16, 2009, 09:28:09 PM »
This is a basically a lever that runs across to a handle thats located just under the body on the drivers side.

Not as nice as an in cab solution and you need to stop and get out to engage the CDL, but its way better than crawling underneath with a 10mm spanner :)

Cost me about $10 to make and a couple of hours to figure out how to run it and then bend it up and install it.

Pics Here http://www.weaselsnout.net/web/pics.nsf/albums/MARR-7DZUJ7




Offline firecat

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Re: My cheap home-made CDL linkage
« Reply #1 on: August 24, 2009, 09:17:13 PM »
I realise that this 'jigger' sets the CDL. Ok fine. Now what's the point and this is from a "know very little" about CDL's type owner??
All readings on 'transfer case/drive line/CDL from the workshop manual (I may not have read up to actually off roading with a CDL)  indicate that the CDL is a maintenance type device for some thing called a rolling road and this is for single shaft operation....I'm only guessing that a rolling road is a dyno type thingy... Now on my old S1 the diff lock or CDL engaged in low range or may be not. Light said it did and the selector had side ways thrust so I guessed and always engaged diff lock/CDL when sooting around in the gumbo.
My S11 is another story as I have not taken it off the track or even used low range seriously...yet.

My point is and Will(Winage) asked me about it on his visit last week and frankly what I'm asking is if some one can in  a way that this here, yes sirreee dumb Mindless Generic Obscenity Steve can understand what the CDL and it uses other than "2 wheel rolling road testing" is all about.

If it's practicle I will probly fit the real deal kit should it be a bonus as with my boat beach launching is not out of the question and most times I have launched on 'rock hard sand' but the day will come when a little lurch might crack that top seal and the wheels may have to grip a bit more aggressively so "Will I need it"??

Regards Steve

Why weren't the S11 fitted fitted as I also read that "remote cables" are used from old S1's???? I ponder the out come as you guys are more serious than I so educate the nuffy OK ;D
« Last Edit: August 24, 2009, 09:24:19 PM by firecat »
1st Disco a peice of @#$# 2nd a peice of Gold

Offline firecat

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Re: My cheap home-made CDL linkage
« Reply #2 on: August 24, 2009, 09:41:41 PM »
As a post script to my above ramblings....CDL 'locked' it was mentioned that ABS,Traction Control and Hill Decent were rendered ineffective

Is it only a bogged down and get you out scenario that CDL is required?

Regards steve
1st Disco a peice of @#$# 2nd a peice of Gold

Offline GrumpyBastard

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Re: My cheap home-made CDL linkage
« Reply #3 on: August 25, 2009, 11:58:56 AM »
I realise that this 'jigger' sets the CDL. Ok fine. Now what's the point and this is from a "know very little" about CDL's type owner??
All readings on 'transfer case/drive line/CDL from the workshop manual (I may not have read up to actually off roading with a CDL)  indicate that the CDL is a maintenance type device for some thing called a rolling road and this is for single shaft operation....I'm only guessing that a rolling road is a dyno type thingy... Now on my old S1 the diff lock or CDL engaged in low range or may be not. Light said it did and the selector had side ways thrust so I guessed and always engaged diff lock/CDL when sooting around in the gumbo.
My S11 is another story as I have not taken it off the track or even used low range seriously...yet.

My point is and Will(Winage) asked me about it on his visit last week and frankly what I'm asking is if some one can in  a way that this here, yes sirreee dumb Mindless Generic Obscenity Steve can understand what the CDL and it uses other than "2 wheel rolling road testing" is all about.

If it's practicle I will probly fit the real deal kit should it be a bonus as with my boat beach launching is not out of the question and most times I have launched on 'rock hard sand' but the day will come when a little lurch might crack that top seal and the wheels may have to grip a bit more aggressively so "Will I need it"??

Regards Steve

Why weren't the S11 fitted fitted as I also read that "remote cables" are used from old S1's???? I ponder the out come as you guys are more serious than I so educate the nuffy OK ;D

I had the same questions when i first bought my D2 back in Oct 2006 (my first 4x4)

Ahhhh lets see where do we start with this....  ??? Im not sure where you are at with this, so i'll start at the beginning so please ignore what you already know.

Im going to over simplify things slightly as it makes concepts simpler to understand.

Okay lets start with the basics, although the Disco is a constant 4x4 ie: it can apply power to all 4 wheels, in reality it can actually be only a 1 wheel drive also. Let me explain, it has 3x differentials to split the power to all 4 wheels

1. A center Diff which takes power from the output on the trans and splits power to the front drive shaft and the rear drive shaft.
2. Front Diff, takes power from the front drive shaft and splits power to front right and front left wheel
3. Rear Diff, takes power from the rear drive shaft and splits power to rear right and rear left wheel.

The diffs are required because when you are turning all the wheels need to turn at different speeds, the outside wheels need to turn faster than the inside wheels and the front wheels turn faster than the rear wheels.

Now the trouble with a diff is it will always send power to where the least resistance is, so if 1 wheel is off the ground it will send all the power to this wheel and none to the other 3 wheels and hence you will not move forward.

To overcome this issue on the D2 Landrover used traction control to clamp the spinning wheel and provide resistance so that the diffs will transfer power to the other wheels.

What the CDL does is it locks the center diff so that 50% of the power goes to the front and 50% goes to the rear. So in the same scenario as above with 1 wheel off the ground (lets say its the front wheel) 50% of the power will still go to the rear wheels and allow you to move forward. But do not use CDL on bitumen because when you are turning the front wheel needs to travel further than the rear wheels.

From here you can move into front and rear diff locks combined with a centre diff locked, in this scenario all wheels will turn at the same speed and 25% of the power will go to each wheel. This is great to move forward in a straight line, but you cant turn.

With the theory out of the way lets get back to the CDL.

The D2 has traction control which in reality is a compromise to difflocks, it allows wheels to turn at different speeds and clamp a spinning wheel using the brakes. In most cases it does a pretty good job but it is always "reactive" a wheel has to spin before it can stop it and this can be an issue especially i have found in sand.

I have found that generally Traction Control is sufficient, except for sand driving where wheels spin a great deal and the TC brings you almost to complete stop as it is applying the brakes to wheels constantly.

The early D2's shipped with CDL internals in the transfer case but no lever to engage it, later D2's had no lever nor CDL internals and finally the updated D2 (D2a) had both CDL lever and CDL internals in the transfer case.

With the early D2's if you start the car with CDL engaged it will think its a fault and disable TC. This can be used to your advantage in a convoluted way, it allows you to select CDL with or without TC just by choosing how you start the car.

You can engage the CDL (if fitted to the transfer case) by using a 10mm spanner, but forget it if you have a V8 unless you want to burn yourself on the exhaust whilst water drips on you from the aircon drain plugs. :)

Okay im sick of typing now....i hope ive answered your questions

Did i see you are in Boronia in a post somewhere? Or did i just make that up?

Cheer
Matt

Offline Winaje

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Re: My cheap home-made CDL linkage
« Reply #4 on: August 25, 2009, 06:25:34 PM »
Matt, that's a great write-up on the theory of CDL, thanks a lot.

Now, as to the real life benefits, in various modes:

TC only (normal mode): Tends to work fairly well in most situations, but as stated TC is reactive, so can reduce momentum by braking multiple wheels in succession.

CDL only (done by starting a D2 with CDL engaged): Reduces overall wheelspin in most situations, especially useful when reversing down a hill from a failed ascent.  In my opinion this is an essential usage of CDL, as it FORCES the front wheels to rotate and prvide steerage.

CDL AND TC (done by starting with CDL DISengaged, THEN engaging CDL):  The ideal situation, in my opinion.  Greatly reduces wheelspin and TC actuation, allows the best transfer of power to the ground in all circumstances.  This is the way I run my D2 when offroad.  Actuation from inside vehicle much prefered to external actuation, take it from me, I have done both.  Nothing worse than having to slide under the vehicle when it's bogged to the axles in greasey mud to actuate CDL.

In summary, if you have an early D2 with the CDL bolt, install an in-cabin CDL actuation system; preferably the D2a kit.
Kind Regards, Will Church


Offline firecat

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Re: My cheap home-made CDL linkage
« Reply #5 on: August 28, 2009, 04:49:16 AM »
Thanks guys. put both replies together and alls good.
Now just got to crawl under and see what I've got.

Regards Steve.
1st Disco a peice of @#$# 2nd a peice of Gold